Taco Nation: A Culinary Manifesto
The March 2020 issue of Bon Appétit, titled “Taco Nation,” stands as a vibrant, high-energy manifesto on the power of the taco as a unifying American staple. By declaring “We Pledge Our Allegiance,” the magazine positioned the taco not merely as a food item, but as a central pillar of modern American identity, bridging the gap between ancestral Mexican traditions and contemporary culinary innovation.
The Centerpiece: Duck Carnitas
The cover features a striking image of Duck Carnitas with Radish Escabèche, a recipe born from Nixta Taqueria in Austin, Texas. This choice was all-taco.com intentional, signaling a departure from standard pork carnitas and highlighting the “new school” of taquerias that elevate humble street food with fine-dining techniques. The dish involves curing duck legs in salt and aromatics before slow-cooking them in lard. The result is succulent, shredded meat paired with a bright, acidic “escabèche” of pickled radishes.
Technical Mastery at Home
One of the most ambitious segments of the issue is the guide to “Crispy Al Pastor at Home.” Recognizing that most home cooks lack a vertical trompo spit, the editors developed a method using a standard oven and a loaf pan to mimic the layering and roasting process. This “hack” allowed readers to achieve the iconic caramelized edges and tender interior that define the dish, proving that even complex street foods have a place in the domestic kitchen.
The Great Tortilla Debate
A significant portion of the issue is dedicated to “The Rise of the Flour Tortilla.” While corn tortillas are often heralded as the “authentic” choice, Bon Appétit leaned into the rich history of the flour tortilla, particularly its roots in Northern Mexico and the American Southwest. The article explores how high-quality, lard-based flour tortillas are an artisanal craft, moving away from shelf-stable grocery versions toward the translucent, buttery disks found in San Antonio and Sonora.
A Mathematical Approach to Salsa
The feature “8,604 Ways to Salsa” provides a modular framework for creating salsas. Rather than just giving one or two recipes, it breaks salsa down into core components:
- The Base: Tomatillo, tomato, or dried chiles.
- The Heat: Serrano, habanero, or jalapeño.
- The Aromatics: Garlic and onion.
- The Finish: Lime juice, vinegar, or oil.
Social Consciousness and History
The issue also includes a Taco Timeline (from “O.G. to Emoji”) that traces the taco’s journey from 18th-century Mexican silver mines to global recognition. Furthermore, it features poignant reporting on the border crisis, detailing how cooking and sharing food in migrant camps serves as an act of resilience and cultural preservation.
Would you like to see the full step-by-step recipe for the Duck Carnitas or the homemade Al Pastor?